gatohumano
I'm cool cuz I Fold
Na minha opinião mete os de 3300uf,em principio não havera problema.
I think the prob is the mem caps.
fo now get it priming stable like you are doing, then later on replace the mem caps and the one to the northbrdge.
From worst to best kinda, shoudl be pretty accurate:
group 1: Chemicon LXZ = Nichicon PW = Panasonic FC
group 2: Chemicon KZH ~ Nichicon HV ~ Rubycon ZLH
group 3: Chemicon KY = Nichicon HE = Rubycon YXG
group 4: Chemicon KZE = Nichicon HD = Rubycon ZL = Sanyo WX
group 5: Chemicon KZG = Rubycon MBZ = Sanyo WG
group 6: Chemicon KZJ = Rubycon MCZ
group 7: Nichicon HZ
The absolute min quality I would use is ruby zl's.
Used zl's act like new teapo's and stuff like that.
There's also sanyo oscon's, svp, sep, etc.
Which are even better then the above list.
Never replace a cap with a low grade no name cap.
I don't care what it's rated for.
Also, don't go replace a cap with a higher uf rating unless you know exactly how it's gonna react.
Replacing caps with higher volt ratings is fine, and it's not a bad idea (longer life, better filtering).
6.3v can be used on stuff that uses 5v and under.
10v, same thing as above.
16v, use these for 12v and under.
Taking a 10v no name cap, and replacing it with a 6.3v bad mofo of a cap is ok, just look up the specs 1st and find the life expectency.
In my case, in one of my psu's, a kzg 6.3v would last 2x longer then the cap I replaced that was rated at 10v.
So it was all good, and it actually improved alot eve on the previous via board I had, the one that was never stable (the one in my sig, I've been to lazy to update it).